Pleasurable with a few precious freckles. It’s the line from a song that I can’t get out of my head by Cartel de Santa. I’m never sure if I can get the translation right when I look at spanish sentences. I am going to read Paulo Coelho’s El Alquimista in spanish. The only other book I read in spanish was by Paulo Coelho, Once Minutos. One month every year in Mexico just isn’t enough for my spanish and it surely isn’t enough for my surfing and it also isn’t enough for Lasse’s education. We make it suffice, and find other ways to learn.
I surfed as much as I could, sometimes up to four sessions a day, sometimes I only got out of the water to eat, and to check on Lasse. I love being out there in the water, competing for waves but mostly just being on the wave. It’s highly addicting, I think that is why it has become such a popular sport. It’s beautiful. I love duck diving, and seeing fish, and making friends, and getting pounded by the wave. I love learning to rip. I sometimes wish I was 19 again, or 14, so I could really get it.
My husband just walked in the door and translated the heading of this post for me. Chilling with a pair of (sexy) hot girls. Ok I was way off. Lost in translation…I wonder how much flies right over my head when I am trying to communicate with people in Mexico? Dang.
Anyway. A surf contest ended up coming to our home break in San Lucas, and I couldn’t resist not entering, I just hoped other girls would enter. I realized I couldn’t surf my fish in the contest and I started to try out Santiago(my brother in law)’s quad flyer. He said give it three days, and it took three days before I felt comfortable. I liked the take off and maneuverability of the flyer. After two times to the local board repair and a lot of sessions I surfed the contest on Santiago’s flyer. I caught two waves in the contest. One was a big close out and the other I made a turn, nothing special but I won the heat.
But after all this I wanted to get my own thruster, to progress my surfing. I found one on a Facebook page: Baja SurfTV, in Cabo: A 5’9″ Matt Biolos Scorcher. $3,000 pesos, and basically new. I took some pink surfboard wax and scribbled gaxiola on the deck. It was mine!
The first morning I had the new board we had to leave back to Colorado in the afternoon…airport by 1:30pm. Santiago and Redo wanted to wait for the tide to come up at Monuments 8-9am. I couldn’t sleep, at 6am I took my board to Zippers and grabbed a few rights. It felt good right away. I got to pump it down the line and minimal turns. The second session was at Monuments – I will post the video. I fell in love with the board-in just one morning. It’s a bit of heartbreak knowing I won’t be back in Mexico until May.
The board on my left is Federico’s. We sent the photo to him so he could relate the dimensions. Check back soon for the youtube version.